Egypt
Welcome to Egypt! This January I was allowed the opportunity to tour the country on study abroad with my school, Moody Bible Institute. God uses many ways to provide, and I'm consistently amazed at His care. He used fellow brothers and sister in Christ, as well as a federal scholarship (the Gilman Scholarship) to get me half way across the word for an amazing adventure! I pray this post causes you to awe at the God who stands sovereign above all time.
I stared out the window in awe, regularly checking the map. Below was the land where God's people had occupied throughout the ages in the ancient times of the Bible, the very ground where Abraham wandered, Isaac took his bride, Jacob returned with a family, the judges defeated mighty nations with God's power, David shepherded his flocks and Saul searched for donkeys, kings ruled God's people... where the kingdom divided, Goliath crashed, Jael took up her tent peg, Rahab let down her cord in faith, the prophets walked across this land as they declared God's word. Here, God's people fell to enemies after their disobedience, the exiles returned in God's faithfulness and laid temple foundations, Rome and Egypt battled. Here Jesus the Son of God was born as Emmanuel! Here He performed miracles, made the New covenant under which I live in relationship with God Almighty! Upon the land below the plane, God's only Son gave His life as a lamb- He bore the attack of hell on my behalf, here on their earthly terrain. And on those hills, He took up His life again. On these green hills melting into sandy brown cliffs, the church was birthed. On this very real land the Hope of all the world appeared and won victory over sin, death and shame. I cannot describe how real the Gospel became to me as I watched the sea rise to meet green plains which gave way to the sandy mountainous hills, cascading then into the Jordan river which in turn snaked down to meet the Dead Sea. Right there- a place my eyes could see- the Israelites crossed a raging Jordan to take hold of God's promise! Perhaps the stirring within my soul mirrors the disciples' excitement to tell one another when they saw Jesus alive, or their unquenchable zeal as the Holy Spirit filled them with power.
The first city for the trip was Cairo, Egypt's capital. Cairo reminded me very much of Uganda's capital, only different due its Muslim/Arabic influence. I kept on excitedly saying, "We do this at home! This reminds me of home!" It was a joy to be back in Africa! Interestingly, this also reminded me of how this earth does not hold "home" for me, for any of us as Jesus's children. Uganda is no longer fully home, Chicago is a transient home, and I know not where He will have me next. Yet I know that Jesus is my home, and He is preparing the Kingdom for His children. Egypt challenged me to ask, am I eagerly waiting for the return of our Lord? How does this daily impact my life? How am I eagerly beckoning others into this promise of home? Does joyful eagerness drive boldness in testimony?
Ready to join for a whirlwind journey containing an overwhelming firehose of information? Egypt holds thousands of years of history- nearly impossible to even briefly encompass in a two week study trip, much less one blog post! Thus, I must begin with a warning: if you'd like an experience similar to the one we had in Egypt, read this entire post in one sitting. However, if you're hoping for a leisurely meandering through the richness of Egypt's history and culture, read this in small chunks. Either way, I pray that this blog post will give you a glimpse into the world of a valuable people whom God has made in a land where He has intentionally worked out the plan of His salvation work throughout history.
Many taxis- like Uganda! :)
A tuktuk, a common site in other countries in Africa as well.
Giza pyramids
First, we visited the Giza pyramids. These three structures were built by three successive pharaohs (grandfather, dad and son). Individuals from various backgrounds and studies continue to speculate how these pyramids were created. They present a baffling "miracle" of engineering. The massive 2-3 ton blocks (the ones on the outside are made of limestone and those on the inside are made of granite!) were brought from Aswan in southern Egypt and are built together so intricately that one cannot stick a credit card between them! Our tour guide insisted, "Egyptians did astounding things with simple tools, because they worked with nature and not against or in spite of it."
The pyramids were most likely not constructed by slaves, contrary to common rhetoric. Worker villages were found near the pyramids where there were bones from ample fine meat and good medications. Such provisions would never be extended to slaves! Additionally, people would have considered it an honor to build the pyramids for their king and gods, both of whom were considered divine.
Surprisingly, the obvious placement of immense wealth was not a problem when the pyramids were constructed. Citizens would never imagine stealing from something belonging to divine beings. Our guide repeatedly demonstrated that as the line of pharaohs continued, corruption became increasingly worse and opened the door for acts like robbing graves or pyramids.
Climbing up into the main burial chamber of the oldest pyramid.
Thanks for friends for this fun picture!
Only one way in and one way out! We had to climb down and brush very close to those coming up. Giving a new intensity to the phrase "shoulder to shoulder."
As someone in the group said, "And now we're emerging from the dead, back into the land of the living!"
The city seen from on the pyramid.
Like I said, on the pyramid!
The reason the top of the pyramid looks different is that the side casing was destroyed and is only remaining on the top.
A vendor outside of the pyramid. The full burka covering veiling almost every woman stood out, not because of "oppression against women" but because they seemed hidden from being seen- yet the Lord speaks the opposite in repeated emphasis throughout the gospel that Jesus saw those He made and sought to bring into His kingdom.
The three pyramids from a nearby overlook point. It was nearly disorienting to see a seemingly vast desert only interrupted by these structures, then turning to see Cairo right behind!
Camels and horses waiting to service tourists who want a cultural ride near the pyramids.
A temple in front of the sphynx guarding the pyramids. This temple used to be on the Nile. Funeral processions for the Pharaoh would come to the temple's door by boat, march past the sphynx then up to the mortuary temples by the pyramid.
Like the pyramids, this structure is one of the most mysterious wonders of construction in the land. The blocks are made predominately of solid granite.
The famous sphynx is constructed of hundreds of small, rectangle bricks! I found myself gaping at the intentionality of these jigsaw-placed blocks to make a defined form! Historians believe the sphynx was made to guard the metropolis, or to speak of a esoteric concept.
The human face bespoke of a powerful mind, while the lion shaped body showed power in stature/strength.
I've always dreamed of snapping a picture like this! It proved a first of hundreds of small, intentional, powerful marks of overwhelming love the Lord placed throughout the journey during the Egypt trip. He is abundant in goodness!
Old Cairo
Next, we drove through the city towards an area known as Old Cairo.
Old Cairo holds some of the oldest religious structures in Africa, constructed by the three religions relating in Abraham and with roots the Middle East area: Christianity, Judaism and Islam.
Above is the oldest mosque in Africa. Islam entered the continent through Egypt in 641 AD. Although beautiful in structure, I found myself trembling and fighting tears as I approached the symbol of beginning of the enemy's attack on God's people across Africa through the lies of Islam. The suffering of hundreds of brothers and sisters in Christ face at the hands of Islamic extremism, and also the daily blinding and binding of thousands made in God's image who cling to Islam for hope and identity. Muslims are in no way the enemy of the church- the evil one who works through the language of lies is. May this reflecting spur you to pray fervently for the strengthening of our persecuted brothers and sisters in Christ across North Africa, and that Muslims across the continent- particularly in Egypt- will find the Lord of their souls who desires life and freedom for them!
Inside the mosque.
Next, we drove the extremely short distance to the church built over the well which tradition designates as the place where Jesus and His earthly parents lived during their time of fleeing from Herod.
Mosaic commemorating the visit of the holy family. Interestingly, throughout Egypt Joseph is depicted as notably older than Mary. In the United States, one never sees such an age gap, due to cultural distress at the idea. However, Egyptian Christians seemed to accept the probability of this arrangement.
Next to the above mosaic, another story is depicted. This story began when a Coptic Pope who was close to a local calif who enjoyed entertaining religious debates. The pope was challenged to debate over the promise that faith in Christ as small as a mustard seed would move a mountain. The pope was told in a vision to find a man with one eye whose prayers would move the mountain. This man, later found, was Simon the Tanner who had plucked out his own eye in literal obedience to Scripture. Tradition proclaims that Simon prayed fervently in response to the crisis of Christian faith being proved illegitimate, and God raised a nearby mountain in site of the calif.
Beautiful, artistic structure around the church.
Pillar representing the disciples.
Old Bibles displayed in a case near the well where the holy family dwelt for a time. The word of God pointing us back to the present of the Word who took on flesh and walked in an unremarkable body, stumbling on chubby toddler legs still familiarizing with the act of walking!
Unremarkable, unnoticed, unseen
A foreign child fell upon the sand
as He attempted a step
The God who crafted eternity
now unacknowledged except
as a refugee vulnerable to strong
evil attack, the Light seemed
dominated by darkness.
The Word of Yahweh
learning to speak,
even hearing a tongue
unknown to a growing
child brain.
Complete normalcy
yet all creation quaking
and spiritual forces roaring
or holding their breath,
expectation yet humanity
continued normally around
a small child only glanced
upon
their Maker.
I could not even begin to comprehend the reality of God incarnate dwelling in Africa, the continent I called home for a majority of my life. Africa, the continent attacked by the evil of slavery as human life was wholly disregarded and degraded. Africa, now groaning under the weight of war, famine, poverty and broken families. Africa, the vibrant continent of color, dance, strength and innovation. Africa, where families gather together in loyalty and fellowship. Africa, the land rich in resources and awesome landscape. Into the heinous ravages of evil and the remnant of God's holy design, Jesus came in the gentleness of His childhood. No words serve to capture even a fragment of this glorious news!
A probable path of the holy family's journey. (Going down along the red line, and returning along the orange line).
Walking from the church towards the synagogue, we followed a long outdoor hall lined with a widely diverse selection of literature for sale.
This ancient synagogue was first built as a basilica (rectangle) church. Later, the church was sold to the Jews because of high taxation burdens.
On this wall of the synagogue decorated with wood and mother of pearl, the Cairo Geniza was found. The geniza is an extensive collection of thousands of Jewish documents from the 6th-19th centuries. Biblical studies have benefitted from this library of evidence, and I remembered learning about the collection in an apologetics class my first semester at school. What a full circle moment of the realistic value of learning about evidence which helps students of the Bible understand the transmission process which aided the translation of the Bible in modern languages!
Sites from the walk out of Old Cairo.
Cave church
Driving through Cairo again to get on a much smaller bus in order to travel through Garbage City and the Cave Church.
Roadside conversations. Literally, the road was just feet away from their sitting space.
Garbage City, narrow streets passing through a crowded collection of three to five story buildings built up against each other, is a pocket of predominately Christian population in Cairo. Here, the populace displayed joy despite the crowded conditions and main occupation of sorting through the city's rubbish to find recyclables. The area came to an overall faith in Christ due to the work of another Simon (seen on the billboard in the above photo) who began working in the area. Due to his impact, the cave church was built as a serene monument amidst the town. I wish we could have sat with the locals and learned how they view their lives. Do the majority of them have a personal relationship with Christ? Do they gather at the Cave Church to worship or at smaller locations? Do they feel the joy they seemed to demonstrate, according to friendly waves and the narrative our guide provided? Do they view the grandeur of the Cave Church in their midst with appreciation, annoyance, indifference or another emotion?
Regardless of the answers, I find it incredibly aligned with the heart of Christ to make His home and raise up His body among the fringes of society. He calls strong, valuable and riches those considered otherwise by the world!
I wish I could have captured the many shops, coffee shops, shisha (smoking) shops, open air butchers and garbage sorting rooms!
Entrance structure into the Cave Church
On the outside walls of the Cave Church, multiple engraved statues were created by a European sculptor.
Several scenes connected through the theme of water were positioned side by side: the miracle at Cana, the Samaritan woman at the well, and Jesus's baptism. As I have listened through the book of John repeatedly this semester, I continue to see the close connection and overlap of the themes and interactions in these closely situation stories.
Our wonderful professors on the trip: Dr. Coakley and Dr. Schmutzer! They wisely led us through a massive vault of Egyptian history, demonstrating how it related to the Bible and our faith in Christ. The trip could not have the depth it did without their instruction.
A moment of reflection in the church. We also began here our class devotionals. Each student in the class, the Theology of Egypt: Slavery and Freedom, (not everyone in the trip was taking the class) had to give a reflection concerning how the content of our tour and its intersection with the Bible applied to us as Christians and served to challenge or encourage us in faith. These became times of testimony and connection among the group. I can personally attest that every single devotional held at least one line or concept I needed for that day or this season. Adding to this, we often did the devotion times in public spaces, where others could hear us talking about the Bible. Our guides would often listen in as well. Although we did not openly spread God's Word while on the trip, I pray that through our words about the Lord and His Word that were spoken regularly throughout the trip, we could scatter seeds in that place.
This Scripture in Isaiah came up repeatedly throughout the trip. It is a precious promise the believers in Egypt cling to throughout history and still today. I found myself joining them in prayer upon this promise spoken by the Lord, even after returning to Chicago.
Bent and Red pyramids
The next day, we boarded the bus for a couple hours' ride to more pyramids!
Note the oranges hanging in the fruit stand above.
More fruit- sold in the back of the pickup truck (Just like Uganda...)
Bakeries with pita break sitting on racks outside was a common scene.
I did not get the chance to capture a picture, but multiple buildings across the country remain unfinished. This, the guide told us, is an effort to avoid taxes which are required for completed structures.
Palm trees galore grew in the oasis spaces near the Nile! You will quickly see my love for them in the pictures throughout this post :)
A traditional mud brick house with palm fronds as the roof.
The pharaohs gave serious consideration to their burial practices due to the importance of the process upon one's success of reaching the afterlife. Royalty was first buried in the sand. These bodies are well preserved due to Egypt's desert climate. After this, pharaohs began to construct square burials chambers called "mastaba." One pharaoh began to experiment with a pyramid structure in the construction of the Steppe Pyramid. Later still, the Bent and Red pyramids (in these pictures) were constructed by one pharaoh, a man ridiculously rich enough to fund both projects! The Bent pyramid, pictured above, was begun at a 57 degree angle, but later adjusted to 43 degrees after the former was found too steep for construction. This lends the bent shape to the structure.
Entrance to the pyramid
Climbing up a wooden stairwell in the Bent Pyramid after descending down a sloped wooden ramp.
View inside the pyramid, including plenty of bats.
Gazing out
from death's chamber
into vast desert
hoping for life
receiving no sign
death to death-
is all barrenness?
A short drive, but long walk!, away sat the Red Pyramid- the successful counterpart to the Bent structure. Note that the casing of both of these pyramids is also destroyed, leaving the tons-heavy blocks exposed.
Memphis
Next, we drove towards the ancient site of Memphis, the "first known civilization" in Egypt. This is considered the birth place of recorded Egyptian history. Narmar, the man who united Upper and Lower Egypt, built his capital here. This was also considered the center of the creation god Paht, who was depicted as a cow (recall the golden calf the Israelites made!). Another Biblical connection is that this would have been the home of Joseph's wife Asenath. The city was destroyed by the incoming Muslims.
Souvenir booths selling jewelry, miniatures of the idols, carpets (the area was known for carpet weaving), magnets and more.
Giant statue of Ramses II which was found fallen in the ruins. This echoes the sentiments of judgement against idolatry and Egypt spoken in the prophets, which centers around the theme of pride. The Lord certainly humbles the proud and preserves the humble- a pattern we saw repeatedly throughout the trip.
The figure on the right has cow ears, hence represented the god Paht.
Stopping for lunch as a group! Meals became a great time of fellowship as we got to know one another, ask about highlights of the day, laugh together and talk about the Lord.
Saqqara
Remember the Steppe Pyramid I referenced earlier? Our next stop, Saqqara, was the home of this structure. This massive site is the largest burial area in Egypt! Over eight million mummified animals have been found, and excavations are still occurring as we speak. The structures of this place echo evidence found in the pyramids: the ancient pharaohs were rich beyond what we can really grasp. They spent a majority of their wealth investing in their tombs and preparation for the afterlife. This repeatedly made me think, how much of my life do I spend readying myself to leave this life and arrive Home in Jesus's presence?
In Saqqara, a mummy was found with a Semitic name (Appar-El). According to the evidence in his burial chamber, he rose to a position similar to Joseph (second in command to Pharaoh). This demonstrates that rising to such a role was not impossible or unheard of for a Semitic foreigner.
Temple next to the Steppe pyramid.
The pillars inside were made to look like reeds by the Nile, and the roof to mimic palm fronds.
Scenes from the "courtyard" formed between the pyramid and temple.
View of the Red Pyramid from Saqqara.
We then visited the mastabas (square burial chambers) nearby. I captured this extraordinarily normal yet captivating scene of these two ladies resting from their daily work. Ironic placement of those alive physically outside of the chamber of death, whose walls depicted hope of and immense investment into the life to come.
A common scene of our group gathered around to listen to a fascinating onslaught of historical information (hours and hours after the entire trip was through!).
Fishing scene
Cows crossing the water. Note the cute hippos which is the same size as the fish, and the fierce looking crocodile under the boat.
Hieroglyphs (don't you worry, I'll provide plenty more pictures of fascinating specimens!)
To be completely honest, I do not recall the purpose of this chamber. I say this purposefully (and still include the photo) to encourage you to use imagination to supplement information I cannot provide. History only becomes alive and meaningful as we connect it to our reality and explore it through the richness of imagination!
Hundreds of offerings being brought to the burial chamber for the afterlife.
This room boasted the preservation of paint color!
Chamber to place the offerings/supplies. Behind the sealed door (see the indent in the wall) was the burial chamber.
Steppe Pyramid behind a failed attempt at a pyramid which became a triangular mound burial chamber which boasted hieroglyphics on white marble inside.
Goshen
This map will help you orient the path we took through the ancient land of Goshen. The sites no longer stand, but we still got to see multiple locations important to Egyptian history where the Israelites would have also dwelt. You begin to understand why this was the land for shepherds as the miles of gardens and Nile-side oasis pass by. This proved a stark contrast to the expansive desert around the pyramids and dominating the landscape throughout a majority of the bus trip from the south in return to Cairo.
The first stop was Tell Basta. Here we saw another well at which tradition says the holy family stopped. This would have been their first stop in the land of Egypt.
This site once boasted the temple of Bubastis, the domestic cat goddess. She was the deity over domestic affairs. Women still come to the location of this well in hopes of receiving blessing from this domestic power.
See the foot?
The statues in this site were made of granite, the best material which would have also had to be transported from far away.
Toes from a Ramses II stature. You'll begin to note he left statues of himself everywhere.
Green lands around Goshen. This stretch of land was the most commonly conquered part of Egypt. A Semitic group called the Hyksos took over in the 1600-1500s BC. Some believe they are the Israelites. This history of invasion has resulted in a people of mixed ethnicity now residing in the area.
Sugar cane!
Goshen was a lot of driving around in the bus, because few of the historic sites remain. Unlike the desert in most of the country which preserved ruins and buildings, the wet conditions of Goshen's land caused a majority of ruins to be destroyed.
We also stopped at Tanis, a sacred temple site. This was one of the multiple capital cities built throughout Egypt's history. The capitals were first located in the north, then moved towards the south. Capitals in the north allowed the king to defend his country from invaders coming from the Middle East. However, capitals in the south proved safer from said invaders.
Here, underground, a silver coffin was constructed and hidden from grave robbers (the pharaoh figured that people would not guess that he would be buried in a temple). Silver was considered more valuable than gold, because silver was from the bones of the gods, whereas gold was the flesh of the gods. The pharaoh buried here may be Shishak who invaded Jerusalem.
This is a view looking into one of the hidden burial chambers. The roof stone was a recycled stela made by a previous pharaoh. We saw this regularly, as one pharaoh would use the stelae or statues of rulers before him to make his own structures/monuments, rather than quarrying new material. This also attests to the declining wealth the pharaohs possessed as Egyptian history progressed.
GEM Museum
Before leaving Cairo, we got to visit the newly opened Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM)! And guess what awaited visitors in the entrance? None other than yet another statue of Ramses II.
Note that the nose is broken. This statue was found fallen face down, similar to the one in Memphis. The loss of a nose would prove significant, because the life after death would be given by the gods through one's nose. Without nostrils, one could not enter the afterlife! This provided a picture of God's judgement on the idols of Egypt and pride of the Pharaohs. He spoke in all seriousness when delivering messages through the prophets. The consequences did not immediately arrive, but God proved faithful to His Word. What an encouragement as we wait upon Him in the face of evil and injustice today! The Lord gives His people the Psalms and prophetic books to lament and cry out to Him as we both yearn for justice and wait patiently for He who never fails.
This boat was found in the temple beside the Great Pyramids of Giza (the first pyramids). It would have been used to transport the Pharaoh's body to the temple. Can you fathom that this vessel is 4,000 years old?
Figurine depicting the rowing of such a boat.
The museum contained thousands of artifacts from across Egyptian history! The pieces came mostly from Egypt, but some demonstrated trade relationships from as far as the Philippines! Our morning there proved dramatically short to take in the rich breadth of story displayed.
Jar containing the skeleton of a young child or infant.
Seeds eaten or used for creating art. I will point out later in the blog a modern set-up still containing some of these seeds!
Headrest for one's bed (the stool-looking apparatus).
Different skin colors in the ancient figurines showed a community of Africans from various places, plus interaction with people from the Middle East, which composed Egyptian population. The kingdom was not monoethinic!
Sarcophagus
One of the chariots found in King Tut's tomb! This would not be a war chariot, but- in the words of our guide- his "Ferrari" to cruise around the city.
Throne for a noble. The figures on the footstool are enemies or slaves which would be under his feet. This definitely gives a new weight when reading 1 Corinthians 15:25-27 which talks about the enemy under Christ's feet.
Fancy headrests for King Tut's bed. (You'll note, he crammed an impressively enormous amount in his tomb, which was the size of a one-bedroom apartment!)
Various socks, gloves and underwear for the king.
The jewelry definitely (and continually) caught my attention!
Baskets for food
Clay containers to keep the ducks for meals.
The king's fancy "hunting stand"- a shaded, portable seat. Again, another instance of engineering which baffles historians.
The king's art set!
Royal canes, again displaying the multiple ethnicities in the kingdom.
This coffin contained a bed of seeds which were still moist when archeologists found it! This reflects the belief that passing to life from death must take place in the tomb... an echo of the full and final victory of our Lord Jesus Christ!
Dozens of figurines of family, slaves and gods which filled the tomb.
King Tut was buried in a Russian-doll like set of boxes and sarcophagi. (See the video bellow to understand!)
Gazing at these unbelievably intricate and expensive golden boxes made me ponder how lovely the Ark of the Covenant would have looked!
The white marble figurine jars in the box contain the organs of King Tut removed during mummification.
He had the coolest beds!
This dagger in the tomb was made from iron, but dates before the iron age! The nickel found in it indicates it would have been composed from remains of a fallen meteorite.
Golden toed shoes!
King Tut's famous head piece which covered the head of his mummy.
The king's throne.
The cobras on the back were terrifying! A glimpse into the spiritual darkness of the kingdom.
Sarcophagi from other rulers.
A mummified crocodile! (More on this later)
Heading South
After visiting the museum, we flew south to the city of Aswan. Like many others along the Nile, a majority of city rests on the east side of the river while the west is dominated by desert. This correlates with the Egyptian believe that the side of the sun rising denoted life, the but the side of its setting paralleled death.
A Nubian coffee set-up (note similar seeds from the museum!). A large population of Nubians live around the Aswan lake, created by the city's dam. They maintain their difference from the majority Egyptian population through a distinct culture and language. A large majority of them once came from the Sudan area. They are known for having sand floors in their houses, a practice considered healthy for the skin.
Nubian coffee is the best I've ever tasted! It included ginger and other bold spices in a small short of espresso-dark roast.
Nile view from the city of Aswan.
The Nile is the single most important resource for Egypt's survival. We see this in the Bible through the continued mention of Israel going down to Egypt for the security provided by the Nile's flooding seasons which provided rich agriculture. Abraham, Sarah and Joseph's family were not oddities in fleeing to Egypt during times of famine. Multiple other nations did the same. Later, in the prophetic books, the Lord warns His people to not run to Egypt for security, thus trying to avoid humbling themselves before the Lord or trying to skirt around His judgement upon them. God also speaks in judgement upon the pride of Egypt resting in the consistent provision of the Nile. Unlike the rivers in the Middle East, such as the Jordan, the river continued to flow even in lack of rain. With this in mind, imagine the absolute devastation when the Lord turned the Nile to blood in response to Pharaoh's hard heart. He was contaminating the very life flow of the nation!
Water continues to prove a concern for Egyptian life. The Aswan dam interrupted the Nile's normal cycle of flooding. This reduced arable land throughout the country. Additionally, tensions exits with countries to the south who want to build dams on the Nile; this would dramatically lower the water supply in Egypt- a necessity in this desert nation!
Again, this provides insight into the reality of God parting the sea and providing water for His people in the desert after freeing them from slavery. He was showing a community completely dependent upon flowing water for their life how trustworthy and powerful He is to sustain those who trust in Him for their entire identity and life.
Isis temple
Our first stop in the south was Isis's temple (the Egyptian goddess, not the Muslim group). First, one disembarked from the bus into a tourist shop area on the docks.
On board, sailing the 10-15 minutes to the Island where the temple is constructed.
See the temple on the right.
The temple was relocated in a preservation effort when changing levels of the Nile caused its original island to face submersion.
Arriving at the temple's docks.
Chillin' salesman :)
Knives, instruments, figurines, jewelry, maps and more for sale!
This goddess, whose adherents began in ancient Egypt, was worshipped as far as Rome once the latter empire rose up. These pillars show a distinctly later, Roman style.
Repeatedly, we saw Pharaoh's with an outstretched arm on the outside of temples, while the inside displayed the abundance of his wealth and his relations with the gods. This demonstrated the pharaoh keeping chaos at bay and preserving the prestige and order of his kingdom.
Another note about the outstretched arm: in the Bible we only see God emphasize His outstretched arm in Exodus, in the context which would be understood both by His people and those opposing His work. He repeatedly speaks of His outstretched arm, more powerful than pharaoh- a demonstration of power which would spread as far as Canaan, displayed in Rahab's speech about the people trembling in fear of God. Other ancient cultures did not speak of an outstretched arm of their ruler, nor depict it, the way Egypt did. Hence, we see God interacting with a culture, using its idiom and imagery, to make Himself known.
Isis and her husband god Horus. The story of this temple is a bit explicit, so I won't fully retell it here. But suffice to say that Horus's evil brother, Seth, cut Horus into pieces and scattered him. Isis went in pursuit of these part to reconstruct and resurrect her husband. Our guide enlisted us in acting out a G-rated version of this story. We made pretty solid actors, and produced many laughs.
I tried to capture the massive size of these figures on the walls. Repeatedly, the scope colliding with intricate detail of Egyptian art and edifices awed me. Again shows the importance of the Lord demonstrating His power to this mighty nation and defeating them, demonstrating the way that He lowers the proud but lifts up the humble.
Doors leading inside.
This temple dates to a Ptolemaic era, evidenced in the extensive writing throughout. The priests had temples in the later years of Egyptian dynasties carve descriptions of worship, culture and theology engraved extensively, for fear of the population loosing their connection to these things. Their prediction later proved correct.
However, the hieroglyphics did not dictate a spoken language. Ancient Egypt contained three languages necessary for society. Hieroglyphics was the tongue of the gods. Another language was used on papyri for record keeping. A final language was spoken among the people in every-day life.
The T topped by a loop on the wall above is an "ankh," the symbol for life. Depiction on the walls can be found in which gods hold the ankh to a pharaoh's nose, giving him life after death. Other pharaohs showed their divine-level authority by depicting themselves holding the ankh. Basically, one can envision it as the "key of life."
cracked
through body
divided frame
arms held
up
in prayer
frozen,
stoic, stuck
in prayer
unanswered
but by
cracks
devastating
(See Isaiah 44:8-20)
Pillars... note the ironic pairing of pictures below. In the first, an image of Paht, the cow creation god, is engraved upon this supported stalk holding up the temple. In the second, Christians carved a Coptic cross- the Rock who holds up the church He redeemed, created and sustained. Note the closely situated Isaiah passages which reflect this contrast.
"Who then is like Me? Let him proclaim it.
Let him declare and lay out before Me
what has happened since I established My ancient people,
and what is yet to come...
All who make idols are nothing,
and they things they treasure are worthless...
He and his kind will be put to shame."
(From Isaiah 44)
"Before me no god was formed,
nor will there be one after Me.
I, even I, am the Lord,
and apart from Me there is no savior...
No one can deliver out of My hand.
When I act, who can reverse it?
...Is there any God besides me?
No, there is no other Rock, I know not one."
(From Isaiah 43,44)
An altar built by a community of Christians who later repurposed this temple as a church!
shadows hiding,
light exposing
Back towards the boat...
Photo credits to a friend
The boats had flags from various countries to try to attract tourists from those nations.
Driving again through Aswan.
Coming out of the mosque after prayers.
Elephantine
Next, we visiting Elephantine, an island housing a Jewish colony on the Nile. This was also a military garrison/outpost protecting the southern border of the nation. Persia established this outpost and positioned Jewish mercenaries in the garrison, alongside the local population. The disobedient Judean remnant and Jeremiah (forced along) probably came this far south to reside when they fled to Egypt.
City scene from the boat. I loved riding on the Nile again, amazed at the fact that God would allow me to see this river at its source (Uganda) and now in the land of its concluding journey towards the Mediterranean Sea.
Saleswoman waiting to greet the disembarking visitors.
We continually heard the mosques proclaiming a call to prayer throughout the day. I tried multiple times to capture the sound on video, but repeatedly failed to record an accurate display of the experience. We often stopped to pray for the people of Egypt during these calls to prayer, interceding on behalf of those who cry out in deception, seeking to know God. Please pray for them to find the Maker of their souls, and pray for the church to continue to remain strong in prayer during this time.
"The Spirit of the Lord is on me...
He has sent me to proclaim freedom for the prisoners
and recovery of sight for the blind,
to release the oppressed,
to proclaim the year of the Lord's favor."
-Jesus
(Luke 4:18-19)
See the fogginess of the dust storm that came upon us whilst on the island?
In Elephantine, Jews worshipped God by the same name (YHWH) as their brothers in Israel. However, the Elephantine residents declared that God had a wife, Anet, who was a Canaanite goddess. These Jewish residents were majority Israelites, rather than Judeans. Hence, their worship was tolerated by kin in the homeland, although not supported. The Jewish worshippers also had difficulty with locals living on the island. The Jews sacrificed a ram in the temple which they had built to YHWH, modelled after the Tabernacle (rather than Solomon's Temple which had been destroyed in the Babylon invasion not long before). The ram was a symbol of the local deity; hence, the Egyptians there tore down the Jew's temple. The Jews then wrote letters to Judah and Persia, asking for funds to rebuild. The Persians readily agreed in order to make the mercenaries- who worked for the empire- happy. However, they were ordered to abstain from further animal sacrifice. This please the Judeans, who were not pleased with a temple outside of Jerusalem. Additionally, this cooled the temper of the island's local population.
The mud bricks composing the half wall in the above photo were from a time earlier than the colorful bricks in the previous picture.
Standing on ancient ruins
o, ruins,
did not the Maker
proclaim
all will be shaken
only
what is true
remains
Repurposed pieces of temples or other royal/important structures.
Human skull found on the site. Forces one to consider the reality of normal human experience in this place, and the vapor of life. How does the story of these populations interact with, shape and inform our lives?
Site of the Jewish temple.
Houses
A fragment from a colorful plate/dish, and the tip of an oil lamp
Doors
open, shut
opportunity
possibility
opened, closed
by authority
glimpse outside
protection
or prison
within
paradox
of doors
Now you can glimpse the effects of the ongoing sandstorm.
Probably the most exciting discovery on the island! We nearly walked past it on the way out when Dr. Schmutzer and Omer (our friend from Israel) stopped in excitement... to stand beside these relocated pieces of the temple altar! Omer eagerly pointed out the horns of the altar, the triangular shapes on the edge. A learned scholar in history and archeology, he had never seen ancient altar horns before!
Isaiah 19 says "In that day, there will be an altar to the Lord in the heart of Egypt, and a monument to the Lord at its border. It will be a sign and witness to the Lord Almighty in the land of Egypt. When they cry out to the Lord because of their oppressors, He will send them a savior and defender, and He will rescue them. So the Lord will make Himself known to the Egyptians, and in that day they will acknowledge the Lord. They will worship with sacrifices and grain offerings; they will make vows to the Lord and keep them. The Lord will strike Egypt with a plague; He will strike them and heal them. They will turn to the Lord and He will response to their please and heal them."
Leaving this astounding site with awe at the Lord's promises, curiosity at the experience of men seeking God and the interactions of nations in worship- hungering for meaning and connection with the divine.
Abu Simbel
We woke up before dawn the next morning to drive four hours south, near the Sudanese border. The landscape for nearly the entire ride boasted kilometer after kilometer of sandy desert. Imagining a trip across this expanse on camel, without water supply in a cooler, made me shudder. No wonder traversing the desert in pursuit of the Lord's promise challenged Israel's faith as they learned to live as a covenant nation!
Brief stop at the colorful cafe- the only pit stop in the hours-long desert drive.
And back to traveling through sandy expanse.
Welcome sight of Abu Simbel and the Nile waters.
This close to the Sudanese borer, we paused as a group to pray over various countries in Africa where our brothers and sisters in Christ face opposition. How meaningful to stand near their realities and intercede on their behalf, one in Christ although living dramatically different lives. We serve one Lord as a united body. The writer of Hebrews reminds believers across time (including us) "Remember those who are in prison as if you were their fellow prisoners, and those who are mistreated as if you yourselves were suffering."
The vibrant colors of a live flower breath hope not understood in lush forests or grassy medows.
Abu Simbel holds the temples of Ramses II (yes, him again) and his queen Nefertari. The temples were submerged in the Nile and rescued through amazing engineering efforts.
Ramses built his temple to awe and intimidate approaching worshippers, subjects and foreigners alike.
The oldest recorded cross-nation peace treaty in the world! The treaty was established when Ramses married a Hittite princess. Egypt recorded the treaty in silver and the Hittites in clay. Due to the valuable material, the silver record was stolen. However, the clay version survived. Above is a carving depicting the writing of the treaty.
Note the head of the half-destroyed statue fallen to the ground.
I cannot help but contrast their display of grandeur, might and self-elevation with the church in Egypt and across Africa, seemingly weak and downtrodden. Praise the Lord who chooses those who are poor in the eyes of the world to be rich in the eyes of faith!
Unlike most sites, this temple displayed the Pharaoh's military might inside the structure.
Note the captives held by Pharaoh's hand, whom he prepares to strike with a mace.
The gnats or lice were specifically chosen by God as a plague which spoke to the Egyptian culture. Egyptians had an anti-hair prejudice, due to the association between presence of hair and lice. They would wear fake beards or wigs which could be easily discarded. Additionally, God proved that the local deity, Geb, who reigned over the land/ground could not stop the swarming of these despised insects.
This is a cartouche, an oval shape on a line base which contains the name of a ruler or deity.
To know someone's name meant holding power over them. Their name could be used to cast spells on the individual. Hence, rulers often had multiple names, one of which often remained a secret.
Ramses II sitting among three deities; another statement of his pride.
Views as one exits and walks towards the queen's temple.
Desert walls
vibrant people
shield, towering
lifeless
above
buzzing souls
Neferari was among very few queens with a temple built in her honor.
Note the cartouche on the ceiling, the outstretched arm on the wall.
The queen offering a lotus flower to Isis.
Contrast the Lord's delicate creation courageously growing out from the wall with the idolatrous, feminine depictions painted on pillars of the stone above.
Another collection of tourist shops, an iconic part of every site.
Glimpses from the ride back to Aswan.
And back to the desert.
The Boat
During this leg of the trip, we got to live on a river boat... on the Nile! (No, not the sea vessel depicted above.)
View of a similar hotel boat to ours, from the doors of our boat (which looked out at water level).
View from a room balcony.
The tip of the stern as seen from the rooftop.
Rooftop complete with a freezing cold pool, lukewarm hot tub, artificial grass, and a lovely sitting area.
Views from the day's ride on the river.
One afternoon, I heard a lot of yelling as I climbed to the roof. Turns out, shopping on the river is a regular occurrence. These vendors would row next to the ship, gain attention of tourists, then throw clothing items or wraps/scarves on board (yes, even up the roof!). Bartering then ensues through a series of shouted exchanges. If an agreement is made, the buyer places money in the plastic wrap which covered the item, tosses it down the river, and the vendor rows over to retrieve his pay.
In order to board or disembark the boat, we walked through a series of river boats docked door-to-door. However, we had to remember the name of our ship, because the boats may move to a new order before we returned, in order to let a departing vessel out.
During our evening off (a rare occasion in the constant go, go, go of the trip), a small group of us decided to explore the town in hopes of glimpsing the current Egyptian culture. I suggested visiting a spice market, which my family suggested from their time in the country. We found one not far away and strolled through. This market proved a local experience, demonstrated by the fact that we saw extremely few other foreigners.
Spices, teas and dried goods on display- a vibrant experience for one's eyes and nose!
In the white sacks closest to the camera lay dried hibiscus flowers. Many of the hotels we stayed at welcomed us with hibiscus juice.
Handmade clay pots
Dusting his wares with a leaf-blower kind of the machine.
Sometimes the carriage drivers had sugar sacks on their horse's mouth. Perhaps to keep the animal from eating while on the job?
Kom Ombo
Our first night temple experience was Kom Ombo, a structure symetically built to honor brother gods Seth and Horus, who represented evil and unattainable good, respectively.
Photo credits to a friend
A lot of people are surprised to hear that Egypt, although a desert, is not oppressively hot throughout the year. We brought jackets and long-sleeved shirts, which were worn regularly.
Lions were used in war to show enemy's the nation's power. Horus was the god over protection and war, hence the depictions of these felines in battle.
Slaves, a spoil of war, lined up with arms tied behind their backs.
The cartouches under the slaves told which kingdom they were captured from.
Horus holding an ankh
Due to the afore-mentioned pleasant weather, several of the sites were packed wall to wall.
Because Seth sometimes took the form of a crocodile, the temple priests raised crocs and mummified them as sacrifices.
A Nilometer, which is a well-like device used to measure the level of the Nile that year. Taxation was demanded at a rate correlating with the crops that year's river level would allow. A record of good news concerning a high level in the Nilometer was found as far away as Israel!
The plague of frogs demonstrates a significant connection with the Nilometer. An abundance of tadpoles would provide assurance of a good flooding season. Frogs represented abundance, fertility and creation or rebirth. When God sent frogs to overwhelm the land, He revealed His power over their hope for abundance and His control over creation.
The first recorded medical tools appear in the Kom Ombo temple. The small shelf engraved behind the small sitting figures include recognizable surgical-life tools, gauze and scissors.
Two altars stood near each other, one for each of the brother gods.
Under the temple wound a tunnel system where the priest would chant or speak messages. The acoustics dramatically amplified one's voice, causing people to believe that gods were speaking to them.
The populace sought healing at this temple both for physical and psychological conditions. Seven oracle rooms around the temple were built for one to move through, correlating with the seven levels of being according to Egyptian theology.
Aforementioned mummified crocs.
More Scenes from the Boat
We came back to our rooms finding a variety of tower sculptures.
My dear friend, Mindi, began circles of encouragement times when we called out the beautiful marks of God's character which we saw in one another. This is one example of the rich ministry which took place among the group throughout the trip. Powerful times of prayer, honest conversations about our faith and stories, moments of forgiveness and breakthrough occurred. The spiritual depth happened by no accident; multiple group members entered the trip praying in expectation as we sought God during notable points at our lives. Prayer prepares the ground of our heart for the rain of God's presence shown through His people and Word.
Sights from the city
The horse carriages were called "Ferraris." Walking down the street, one would hear repeatedly, "Come, ride this Ferrari."
Sports car open air parking or carriage rest stop?
While driving in Luxor, we got to see the hotel where my favorite author, Agatha Christie, composed Death on the Nile.
Edfu
Next, we visited Horus's temple at Edfu.
Entrance
Courtyard
Looking out the door from the courtyard.
Interplay of shadows and light
Ancient faces
new bodies
sitting together
one mount of
stone, silent
pair of eyes
watching, perceptive
Entering the temple. Citizens would never see the inside of these temples, as tourists now do. Only the priests came inside. In fact, notches in the floor of the courtyard showed the evidence of rods where curtains hung to keep the public from approaching the holy spaces. Again, an echo of the Tabernacle in Israel. They would have a framework for this relationship of curtains separating the holy from the normal.
Additionally, the priests used the waters of the Nile to cleanse themselves before entering the temple. When God turned the river to blood, He was not only attacking the power of the Nile god and polluting the nation's foundational resource; He also cut the priests off from connection with the gods!
Light pierces
the darkness
which never
overcomes it,
no- its velvet drapes
flee from brilliant
garments of fire
The flow of the temple's chambers led to the holy of holies where (gasp) Horus's holy ark sat. Again, this demonstrates the picture Israel would have in their minds as they left Egypt. God's intentional design of the tabernacle and His insistence that each detail be conducted according to plan not only made sense but would be expected for a God hoy and powerful above all others.
Ark of Horus, complete with his falcon head at the end of the pole.
Other holy rooms throughout the temple.
How will they hear
unless someone proclaims
good news in fellowship
of life and not tongue alone?
And how will they run
free, unless a reflection
of light outside the cambers
reaches in their world?
Note the bodies and faces systematically ruined, while the hieroglyphs and attire remain unhindered. Later Egyptian communities who disliked corrupt pharaohs, or Christians retaliating against the history of idolatry, would deface- hence defame- the memory of these gods and rulers.
Walkway around the temple between its structure and the courtyard walls.
This was the crown of the king for lower Egypt (the north). Pharaohs who ruled all of the country later combined the crowns of upper and lower Egypt to demonstrate their authority over the entire region.
Following the stories depicted on the wall.
More from the Boat
View from the room
Apparently cancelling hot air balloon rides is common in Egypt, because my family had their morning ride cancelled when they visited the country a couple years ago, and our group also woke up to a cancellation due to weather. However, I appreciated waking up, the last morning on the boat, to the scene of hot air balloons floating upward in the sunrise.
Serene
waters;
peace,
be still
Scenes from Luxor
We disembarked the boat and began our drive through the city of Luxor, half way up the Nile towards Cairo.
Bread shop
At one point, we stopped to wait for a train to cross the tracks. The train took a long time coming, so the road became congested with families on motorbikes squeezing to the front of the line. Pedestrians continued to transverse the track, ducking under the gate, until the train was in earshot. Reminded me very much of Uganda!
Some pedestrians chose to wait. How beautifully sacred to watch God's image-bearers from a culture and world different than that in the bus, as they stood within the normalcy of life gifted that day by He who is breath.
Robed
eyes veiled
body hidden
existence lived
in black;
now paused,
stilled
before red
a wall
strong, firm
echoes
blood
poured
as Foundation
became weak
engulfed in
black
existence swarmed
by evil
which crowded
closer,
bloodthirsty,
closer
then shattered
as its fangs
were pierced
by the One
into whom they
pierced;
freedom
protection
wooing
the daughter
He sees
O, He sees,
even
enveiled
Valley of the Kings
As we crossed the river and left behind the life-sustaining eastern bank, we headed into the desert, the west, the land of the dead.
Here lay the Valley of the Kings, where many pharaohs lay buried. A quarter of the nation's antiquities lay in the Luxor area, and a large chunk were found buried in this valley of tombs. Grave robbers stole multiple mummies and sold them on the black market. Foreigners who lived in Egypt used to buy these bodies for parties which centered around unwrapping the mummy.
An image of how the tombs were crafted as chambers descending into the hillside. The longer tunnels leading to a burial chamber meant that the pharaoh was alive longer and able to oversee extensive construction of his tomb. The kingdom began to face increasing corruption (unlike early years when the riches of a pyramid could exist openly without thievery) as pharaohs became dependent on the priests in desperation to enter the afterlife. The priests then began to take control of the kingdom. Wealth decreased, keeping the pharaohs from funds grand enough to craft a pyramid. Hence, this model of tombs began.
Entering one of the tombs.
In Luxor the sites boasted vibrantly preserved pigmentation on the walls and ceilings, mostly in the tombs which were hidden from the elements in the dry desert climate. Viewing these colors awakened the imagination to picture the grandeur of the temples in their prime when colors would cover every picture upon the walls.
Sarcophagus in the burial chamber at the end of the tunnel. On the walls on the hallway between the door and chamber, extensive paintings of citizens of slaves bearing funerary offerings faced the direction of the deceased pharaoh.
Slaves captured by the pharaoh buried in that chamber.
The tunnel (see the light of the entryway?)
Note the size of this pharaoh- larger than the god Horus!
King Tut's famous tomb proved the best preserved in the valley, with its contents untouched by grave robbers. He was one of the most insignificant kings, hence he was not sought out by those looking for the spoils of funerary offerings. He burial chamber is also smaller than the others, with a much shorter hall leading to it.
Remember the extensive collection of riches from the GEM which Tut's subjects fit into his relatively tiny tomb!
His was the only mummy displayed in the Valley of the Kings. The others were either stolen/ruined or displayed in another Cairo museum. How eerie to stare in the face of a man who lived thousands of years ago, more so ruling an entire kingdom!, now left as a shriveled corpse looking exposed, helpless and empty.
Descending into another tomb.
The ceiling
Note the color in these hieroglyphics.
The walk between tombs.
You feel the true minuteness of your vapor-sized humanity in the shadow of the unflinching pillars of sandy rocks.
Various skin tones showed the existence of interaction between people groups amidst the kingdom. However, the kings themselves strove to maintain a "pure" royal family. Even in the pharaoh line, though, one sees both Egyptian and Nubian descent.
Note the goddess Isis shielding Pharaoh on the left, then Pharaoh's proximity as he following Horus on the right. The size, placement and objects in each scene are crafted with absolute intentionality. Often, I found myself far more overwhelmed by the intentionality, expanse and skill of the art than the lengthen of history. One could sit in a single position amidst a temple or tomb for hours, starting at a single wall, and not tire of the storyline. (That is, if you had time. We certainly did a sprint, not meander, through Egypt)
Scenes from the burial chamber walls.
Modern hieroglyphics- a message on the bathroom door :)
Karnak Temple
Next we journeyed back to the eastern side of the rive to visit the Karnak Temple. This extensive temple complex prove overwhelming in its size and intricate detail. I tried quite hard to capture these characteristics, but I conclude that one must visit the site to fully comprehend the grand qualities of Karnak.
A three kilometer road between identical lines of sphynx once connected the Karnak and Luxor temples. Although no longer fully in tact, portions of the path still stand at the entrances of these temples.
Rather than going directly inside, we first walked along one side of the temple.
(Inside the temple) This temple would have been one of, if not the most, grand in the kingdom. Its floors were covered in gold and detailed, highly talented art covered the pillars, walls and ceilings. Traces of the pigmentation remained in some areas.
I believe it took seven or eight people to hold hands around a pillar!
Note the crown on the female's head. This is that of the south, upper Egypt.
Walking out from the main temple room, one strolled among stelae, rooms covering in hieroglyphics, and other temple buildings or chambers.
Looking back towards the main temple room.
Stopping for a class lecture. Omer and our professors helped us see that the historical setting of Exodus provides multiple unknowns, most prominent the pharaoh and date of the exodus. One's hermeneutical starting point often determines which conclusion is reached. Those who begin from the time stamps given in Biblical texts, such as 1 Kings 6:1 which records 480 years between Solomon building the Temple and the exodus. Conversely, those who begin from historical/archeological search tend towards an earlier exodus, in the 13th century BC. Multiple pharaohs fit certain aspects of the Biblical story, but none align with all the details.
For part of our class, we had to write a short paper showing comprehension of these debated topics. I want to include the summary of my paper, which aligns with a principle our professors stressed as they taught us the factors supporting the varying views of exodus dating.
"How do Christians hold this debate? First, we must recognize and place primary importance on the theological message in Exodus which highlights and elevates God's Name. The lack of pharaoh's name, which would provide a date, solidifies this holy message. Second, a majority of world scholarship disbelieves the exodus took place at all. Christian scholars must unite in the affirmation and defense of an exodus rather than allowing disagreement concerning dates to divide us. Third, archeology continues to expose new discovery which affects understanding of historical dates, particularly in Egyptology. Omer said, 'Archeology is a science based on nothing,' implying that the very foundational conclusions of archeology are ever subject to change in light of new discoveries. Hence, Christian scholars must hold historical evidence with humility, and cling devotedly to God's revelation of Himself who is beyond and within all time."
Group photo in front of the wall which depicts in hieroglyphic record Shishak's invasion of Judah.
The holy lake beside the temple complex (recall the need for water in order that priests could purify themselves for religious rituals).
A view from further away
Back into the main section of the temple.
The number of pillars was so great, you could loose track of one another while trying to explore the room!
I felt frustrated walking away... we hardly began exploring, examining, probing the art and structure of this religious complex! I had moved about in a bit of a fog, trying to absorb the enormity of what I saw, reaching across the expanse of time to understand its antiquity, lingering my gaze upon the intentionally detailed art work. This caused me to ponder, does the Lord receive my utter awe at the overwhelming expanse of His being? Scripture declares that not even the highest heavens contain Him, and He needs to temple built by the hands of the men for His resting place. These astounding structures decay, anticipating a full perishing moment upon His return. Does my imagination linger in wonder at the work of His hands, art intricately woven together and alive? He crafted each person I encounter with marvelous, miraculous detail- have I given Him my praise and them dignity deserved by virtue of being a masterpiece of He who rules over all?
History must never capture us in the past. Rather, captivation with the contours of reality during that time- whether thousands of years ago (before Abraham's life!) in Egypt, or the years of your childhood- must spur us to wonder, imagine and question in dialogue leading back to He who says, "I am and the first and the last; there is no God besides Me." Lingering in the story of history from our undeniable connection to the present orients the gaze upwards to the One who stands beyond time, yet chooses to enter into its limits.
Luxor Temple
After spending the afternoon at Karnak, we travelled to Luxor temple, once connected to the previous site by a sphynx-lined road.
In photography, I have attempted unsuccessfully to provide you an accurate taste for the overwhelming size, skill and quality of these historic structures. I noted to one professor the way pharaohs used their building projects to demonstrate their extraordinariness and gain significance; they wanted to prove themselves "beyond human" thus deserving of respect, awe, value and recognition. They strove to live in persona and position remembered notably throughout time, hence immortalizing themselves. They fought to defeat human limitation and normalcy.
I'll never forget how this wise professor answered.
"Extraordinary uniqueness, elevated by the pride of standing out as different (hence gaining attention, admiration, even being envied) means one requires a unique atonement."
Unlike kings striving to secure their worth, Christ came absolutely secure in His identity, position and value. This enabled Him to come in the ordinary. He chose to identify with and live among the normal- unimpressive, unextraordinary, unmemorable. His grace is for those who humble themselves to acknowledge their human limitations, brokenness, need. He embraced those faced with their mortality. He spoke words of life to the hungry who chose to allow their longings to turn them towards the mercy of God. Satiated by the Bread of Life. Quenched by the Living Water. No longer needing, then, to strive for recognition, significance, admiration. The war against limitations and mortality ceases as peace rules in the assurance of a finished work done by the High Priest who knew normalcy.
Perhaps, like me, you feel the tension of extraordinary. As a missionary kid who belonged to no world I dwelt in or visited, yet found home everywhere, I must wrestle with the reality of uniqueness. Too often I find my identity here, which stops me from fully embracing home among God's people or receiving His grace. I find myself believing I need a unique atonement: that somehow, I must add to the perfect, completed sacrifice of Christ by proving myself worthy of love. The lie says, "You cannot embrace the love given you until you give reason to justify why God or these people should care for you." How grossly this robs Christ of glory- denying the holy completion of His sacrifice! How this lie reeks of pride: declaring I possess the capability to provide justification.
Humility acknowledges our normalcy. Unremarkable human nature.
Complete, desperate need for a redeemer.
Hands open, empty to receive grace.
Hearts rejoicing with overflow of Christ's presence.
Worship, admiration, exaltation, significance then belongs to Him alone.
And in Christ, you and I find ourselves justified and wholly, irrevocably loved.
Right inside the entrance sits a mosque built directly into the temple structure, blended seamlessly with the rocks of the ancient walls.
Birds in the temple... parallels Psalm 84
"How lovely is your dwelling place,
O LORD Almighty!
My soul yearns, even faints,
for the courts of the LORD;
my heart and my flesh cry out
for the living God.
Even the sparrow has found a home,
and the swallow a nest for herself,
where she may have her young-
a place near your altar,
O LORD Almighty, my King and my God."
Walking from the entrance towards the main temple chambers.
Looking from the courtyard back towards the entrance.
Space of worship/altar for a church which once fellowshipped in the temple. This structure testified to the overlapping reality of multiple faiths in Egyptian history: ancient theology, self-elevation, Islam and Christianity.
In this hall, Alexander the Great had a scene depicting him as a pharaoh, mirroring the same scene carved for an Egyptian pharaoh on the other side of the room. In this way, the Greek emperor sought to establish his legitimacy in ruling over Egypt. He was following a pattern used by the pharaohs themselves, shown in other reliefs from the same temple (see below).
In the low lighting it proves difficult to see, but this picture stands as part of a carved storyline establishing the legitimacy of a pharaoh whose bloodline was suspected of not being pure. In the narrative, the pharaoh's father is a god. Hence, the king holds claim to deity which demands respect from the local population.
Layers, complexity, angles... mirroring the reality of Egyptian history. Although we learn neatly packages dates and eras for this nation's story, Egyptology lacks tidy dating as it attempts to make sense of thousands' years worth of history.
On the sphynx road
Hatshepsut's Temple
Scenes from the Nile-side view of our hotel in Luxor.
Our next day began with the temple of Hatshepsut, an Egyptian queen. She was the first Egyptian ruler or deify herself when she ruled the kingdom, a practice continued by others- most notably Rameses II.
Statues of her as ruler wearing a fake beard.
Holy room in the temple.
The "queens court"- the amazing group of ladies on the trip!
How quickly
shadows shift
impermanence
of day
hoping now
for the next
new light
beckoning again
shadows
Looking out at the desert of the land of the dead, west of the Nile.
One reaches
striving
to prove
self a god
while
sparrows
rest assured
their Maker
watches carefully
their tiny
lives
A common scene: offerings stacked before a pharaoh or god. Note the two dead cows tied upside down in the middle of the "pile."
Once colorful
admired
adored
revered
now decaying
defaced
fading
Blue clothes in the desert
Daughters of Christ, significant to and cherished by their King and Maker.
Tourist shops on the way out. One walked through hearing every vendor call to you, "One dollar! One dollar!"
Theban Necropolis
Next we drove down the hill to a burial site of a high ranking official.
This house has no significance historically, but I found the rolled mats, yellow background, and neatly lined ceiling poles captivating. The beautiful miracle of "normal life," an existence sustained by the Maker of Heaven and Earth. Not regardless but in the midst of difficult realities (remember, this abode stands near a grave) reason to celebrate life remains. This reminds me of a prisoner I write to; every letter I ask him for five things he thanks the Lord for today. It's humbling to receive those answers in each response, without fail. The joy of the Lord who faithfully remains true to His character certainly is our strength!
An example of an entrance constructed, leading into a tomb.
Volunteer flashlight- directing the sunlight inside with a mirror.
The tomb was built like a T, with a hall leading straight from the entrance to the location of the sarcophagus, and another hall leading both right and left from the doorway.
A zoo of animals brought for the pharaoh on his journey to the afterlife. Notice a giraffe, baboon, horse, and cheetah!
Above you can see the process of making bricks (on the lowest level of the picture). The Israelites' work as slaves would have included these very actions. Additionally, different garments demonstrate various levels of hierarchy. Task masters have longer white skirts, workers have shorter white ones, and slaves have brown skirts.
These scenes also demonstrate other crafts of the kingdom, such as building and sculpting. This depicts how the sites seen throughout the entire trip were formed and decorated!
Workers constructed monuments/stelae!
Lake in the middle of busy workers.
This wall depicts royal women and their servants, showing the ways they interacted and the style of their garments.
Scenes from the river... is it becoming clear how one could stare at a single wall for hours?
The lotus flower, held by the woman in the picture above, came to be my favorite symbol. Egyptians used the flower to represent resurrection or rebirth. Lotus flowers in Egypt close at night, then open their petals in the morning light. Thus they demonstrate a persistence of renewal and hope of life emerging with the new day.
Ramesseum
Next we drove to the Ramesseum, the mortuary temple of (yet again) Rameses II.
Little business man waiting to welcome us and try to his hand at marketing a parrot-holding experience.
Ancient Egyptians believed that every life had seven aspects or components. The first three- body, mind and soul- are familiar to us. Additionally, they noted how people contained a name, ankh (immortal life) and a shadow.
How the mighty have fallen!
This immense 1,000 ton granite statue of Rameses now lies broken with only the toes standing in their original place. Seeing this colossal collapse inspired Percy Shelley to write the poem "Ozymandias". In his work, Shelley observes,
"And on the pedestal, these words appear:
My name is Ozymandias, King of Kings;
Look on my Works, ye Mighty, and despair!"
Nothing beside remains. Round the decay
Of that colossal Wreck, boundless and bare
The lone and level sands stretch far away."
Here he potently captures the rank pride apparent in Rameses's life continuing, if not growing, until he entered the grave. Who would dare think of themselves not only as a god, but as the one elevated above all else? The "wreck, boundless and bare" demonstrate how seriously God handles the sin of pride. Pride perhaps spurs on all other forms of sin. The moment one believes he can live on his own power and rule not only his life, but enact control over other people or things in the world, then the need for God Almighty completely dissipates. Consider the fact that even your faith comes not from your own ability to recognize your own need and reach for God. No! We are blind to our own brokenness without the intervention of the Holy Spirit shattering the rock of our hearts and opening our eyes to see the brokenness of our own way. Only in trusting humbly in the kindness of our Lord shown through His abundant grace in Christ Jesus do we have any hope. Without this brokenness leading to humility, there remains an idol of stone, making one hard and impenetrable to the voice of He alone who holds power to rescue us not only from the evil one, but also from our own flesh.
Entrance
Bust of the fallen Rameses statue.
In complete opposition to the self-elevation and self-preservation shown in Rameses, the Lord requires humility among those who come into His family.
"This is what the Lord says: 'Heaven is my throne and the earth is my footstool. Where is the house you will build for me? Where will my resting place be? Has not my hand made all these things, and so they came into being?' declares the Lord. 'These are the ones I look on with favor: those who are humble and contrite in spirit and who tremble at my word." (Is. 66:1-2)
Begin noting the repetition and emphasis the Lord places upon a humble heart throughout His word!
In this compound sat bakeries, school rooms, and kitchens. Like Moses in the Bible, notability captured from other nations would receive an Egyptian education (from school rooms in the main temples, probably not the mortuary temples), then be sent back to their land to rule with an Egyptian mindset, or appointed a position in the Egyptian administrative structure.
I could not believe how similar these ancient kitchen fireplace remains looked to that used by several current cultures!
The arched structures in the right of this photo are storerooms which show us what the storerooms made by Israel would have looked like.
The contrast of these colors remind me of the striking difference between the desert and Nile oases. I wrote in my journal a reflection of driving around the country, "Life is noticed, vibrant and a cause of joy, shown by the greenery amidst the desert. Only in the wilderness is this possible." The barren expanse which overwhelms one standing in its midst produce rejoicing in the lush produce of even a small Nile oasis. The one who has never known the desert cannot rejoice fully in the source of life.
Medinet Habu
Arriving at the day's final stop, where multiple lively vendors waiting for us to disembark the bus.
The Medinet Habu is a structure where the worship of Amun Ra (the main deity and sun god) was centralized. Additionally, funerary rites for Ramses II took place here. The temple is built with a fortress-like structure around it- the walls you see depicted in this photo.
Note the god involved in giving this pharaoh victory over his enemies. Two female lions sat within the entrance of the fort. They symbolized the goddess of war. Why not male lions? Female lions are the ones who hunt and kill prey.
Entering under the door of the fortress walls.
Looking in towards the temple.
On the ceiling, against a painted blue sky, multiple vultures spread their wings. Vultures appeared throughout the decoration of every site. Their wings represented protection. A vulture does not sit on its eggs, because its body weight will crush the young. Instead, the bird covers its eggs with her expansive wings. This calls to mind the Psalm which declares, "He will cover you with His feathers, and under His wings you will find refuge. His faithfulness will be your shield and rampart." (91:4)
Again, massive pillars with overwhelmingly intricate decoration held up the building. In this post, I have written much about the pride of ancient Egypt and the heaviness of Islam's current presence. However, the people of Egypt continued to astound me. They showed in their earliest history an endurance, creativity and genius in their projects. They worked with nature to craft structures and tools which baffle learned experts in various fields today! Their art demonstrates attention to detail, weighty layers of theology, and celebration of beauty. We had the privilege of meeting a teenage student who showed a similar mindset as her ancestors, as she showed us the talented magnets she created by hand to fund her school fees.
After seeing thousands of hieroglyphs, this sight caught our attention- the shapes were dug into the wall! Our guide explained that pharaohs began this practice to keep those who hated them or came after them from removing their name or accomplishments from history.
One of several disturbing war scenes on the walls. The soldiers lined up to pile up before pharaoh how many hands they had cut off from killed/defeated members of the enemy.
I truly find myself at a loss for words to describe the immensity of the art, so I attempt to give you a small taste through the following pictures.
Note on the right of the pole how emphatic the pharaohs seemed to carve their names deeply in the cartouches.
Around the back sat dozens of pillar stubs. The tops were cut off to make a church in the vicinity. Unlike the stones which fall, decorations which fade, or memories which one strove to preserve yet find themselves misrepresented years later... the Lord preserves His church! He walks with her, purifying her that He may present her before the Father as a pure bride!
We then left Luxor and continued driving north.
Dendera
Unlike the previous sites, the Dendera temple was constructed during the Ptolemaic era in honor of the goddess Hathor. This deity, depicted as a cow, reigned over motherhood/reproduction.
Other structures next to the temple were still under conservation efforts.
Unlike the sandstone and granite Egyptian royalty built with, the locals utilized mud bricks. The Israelites likely constructed with this material as well. In Uganda, my friends still make their homes of a similar mud brick.
Female faces with cow ears, in honor of the goddess.
Depictions of the royal family
These vibrant colors were covered by a bacterial growth before conservation efforts began the work of re-exposing the art.
Empty cartouches prepared for the coming rulers.
We climbed to the roof where parties used to occur. Tiny steps leading up allowed animals to be easily led upstairs where they would be sacrificed. All this echoed the wild celebration Israel threw in the desert when they cast a golden calf to worship.
The only depiction I saw of a pharaoh lying down, probably in a sarcophagus.
On the ceiling of a rooftop chapel, a human body was depicted, wrapped around the scene of several boats. This showed the "mother of creation" over various seasons. Next to it, a zodiac took up space on the remainder of the ceiling.
Sarcophagi outside the temple.
Perhaps a grinding stone where the oil or liquid pressed out could run into the grooves then out the spout.
Abydos
Travelling farther to the city of Abydos.
The temple at Abydos, not visited by a majority of tourists due to its distance from both Luxor and Cairo, is the center of Egyptian paganism. The temple held five chambers, six for the major gods and one for Pharaoh Seti I.
Note Isis, the goddess, holding Seti I on her lap.
Standing towards the front of the temple and looking in, facing one of the seven chapels.
Multiples rooms in the chapel
Here the pharaoh holds two tools used in magic practices as an offering to the god Horus. In exchange, Horus holds the two scepters for a ruler and the ankh.
The sun disk (connected to the powerful sun god Ra) over this sitting figure who holds the ankh on its knees.
Several gods surrounding the enthroned Seti I
In another chapel, Christians had entered this center of pagan worship and left their mark.
Written in red, as if in the powerful Blood, "Jesus Christ is Lord." In this epicenter of darkness, the Lordship of Jesus is acknowledged by His people. The darkness lingering in this low-lit, ominous temple cannot overcome the Light which shines into creation's hidden corners.
In a side hall the list of pharaohs is engraved.
This list provides historians with one of the best preserved listings of the ancient pharaohs. Here Seti I teaches his son, the famous Rameses II, to recite the names of all the pharaohs before him. Although several names appear to be missing, this list proves a crucial help to establishing chronology for the Egyptian dynasties.
The list just across the hall displays the young king listing the gods. Here the cartouches are stacked ceiling to floor, marking the connection sought between the gods in heaven and humanity on earth. The king's list, on the other hand, moved horizontally from left to right.
Boats for royal funerals were "parked" in this large room.
Behind the temple lay the Osireion, a mysterious structure of unknown purpose. Some suggest it was built in honor of Osiris. Worshippers to this day consider the water holy for purification. Children tried to sell us stalks of grain which were used in the rituals of this place.
This location, more than any of the others, showed the effects from ancient times reaching to establish its stronghold on the present population. The spiritual atmosphere of the area was tangibly dark and heavy. Magic rituals seeking knowledge from the gods exists to date and adherents from other countries come in pursuit of these spiritual experiences. The temple is connected to renewal or resurrection of life (hence the purifying water, boats containing offerings for the afterlife, and consolidation of the main gods). This points to a repeated theme I observed throughout our tour of ancient Egypt: the desire to immortalize one's self and guarantee one's passage into the afterlife.
We have the hope of assurance of resurrection! Jesus declares to all who hear Him, "I am the Way, the Truth and the Life. No one comes to the Father except through Me." (John 14). His blood poured out as the final sacrifice, purifying all who hide themselves in Him. This brings to mind His words to the church in Sardis, "These are the words of him who holds the seven spirits of God and the seven stars. I know your deeds; you have a reputation of being alive, but you are dead. Wake up! Strengthen what remains and is about to die, for I have found your deeds unfinished in the sight of my God. Remember, therefore, what you have received and heard; hold it fast, and repent. But if you do not wake up, I will come like a thief, and you will not know at what time I will come to you. Yet you have a few people in Sardis who have not soiled their clothes. They will walk with me, dressed in white, for they are worthy. The one who is victorious will, like them, be dressed in white. I will never blot out the name of that person from the book of life, but will acknowledge that name before my Father and his angels. Whoever has ears, let them hear what the Spirit says to the churches." (Rev. 3)
Tell-Amarna tomb
Feeling relieved to leave the heavy reality of darkness in Abydos behind, we started off the next morning towards several tombs.
Miracle and sacred scene of everyday life, the truth of breath in the face of death, potential for rescue and flourishing in spite of darkness. The sacred scene of image bearers of the Almighty God, those He calls to in love. Those who hold His finger print even when they acknowledge Him not. How deeply He desires that they would knw Him who crafted their souls with upmost affection! So intensely deep cries out to deep that He who exists outside and independent of all creation, yet the anchor and definition of reality Himself, stepped into their skin. Entered their country. Learned their language. Reached infinite love as infant hands into their world.
Back to the expanse of the desert.
Approaching a community, sustained by the Nile waters.
Trasition between the two contrasts, perphaps?
Entering the Amarna area
Here we stopped at the tomb of Akhenaten, the pharaoh who brought Egypt into a brief period of monotheism in worship of the deity Aten (note the name "Aten" imbedded within the pharaoh's name. This occurred with several pharaohs, such as "Ra" in Rameses). Akhenaten centralized his rule and the center of Aten worship in the middle of the country, away from the temples and priests in the cities of the north or south. Aten was represented by the sun disk so that he would have no form for adherents to idolize. After his death, Egypt returned to polytheism and considered Akhenaten a heretic of sorts. Priests took over reigning for the young King Tut, causing a wave of corruption in the rulership.
The whipping desert wind
This gives you a glimpse of the hike up the rocky sand "hill" from the bus (small dot on the road below).
Inside the tomb was a dome where a baptismal had been cut out. Unlike the other temples where Christians had reclaimed the space to worship the one true God, in this tomb the church hid from persecution in the place of a king considered heretic for acknowledging only one god. Here in a tomb carved out for a pharaoh the country attempted to forget and defame, God's family expanded as those baptized here passed from death to life! Although hidden from and despised by the world, this church would never be forgotten by its King and Maker. And when we entered, these brothers and sisters in Christ challenged, encouraged and inspired our faith. The connection I struggled to make across history in the other sites due to the untraversable lengthen of time I now made deep in my heart to the pilgrims of faith who sojourned before me. May their testimony- the courage to remain faithful given them by the Holy Spirit- never be forgotten!
Inside the tomb, our guide noted how he had seen us praying and heard us speaking about God, so he asked us to pray for his country. He shared that in many other situations, he could not openly ask us to do this, but because we were speaking English in a small, unvisited tourist site amidst an Arabic language population, he could make this request. I cannot give words to the sacred experience of praying over Egypt at the request of one of its own people, looking out upon the desert from the place of the dead, and hoping that the Lord would bring about an abundance of life, just as those oases along the Nile. The Body of Christ was heard as some prayed with passionate, colorful language and others interceded in reverent, poetic speech. After "amen" gently resounded, one member suggested we sing the doxology. Praise to the God of life who holds Egypt ever in His sight swelled throughout the tomb, bursting out its stony door to sound upon the desolate valley beneath.
When we had first entered the tomb, our guide had joked, "Remove your shoes, for you are entering holy ground." Turns out, he was not speaking void words. The words echoing in that tomb could be described only in fraction as "sacred," for Jesus entered among His church once again worshipping from this chamber meant for death.
"For he has rescued us from the dominion of darkness and brought us into the kingdom of the Son he loves, in whom we have redemption, the forgiveness of sins." (Col. 1:13-14)
Beni Hassan
Back of the bus, we drove through the desert to our final tombs of the tour.
Compounds along the side of the road.
The walled-in compounds with decorated metal gates reminded me very much of Uganda.
Fences or barrier made of dried corn/maize stalks around the fields
The Beni-Hassan tombs house the bodies (no longer there) of several nobility. These tombs rested in an area between lower and upper Egypt. Due to its distance from either location often chosen by the pharaohs as a capital, this area was known for its bandits who caused problems for the kingdom.
The tombs sat up on a high ledge overlooking the desert which abruptly encountered the Nile greenery.
Audience of one :)
Inside one of the tombs.
Below the figures, the hieroglyphs are written in opposite directions, shown by the birds facing different ways.
Holes carved in the walls to hold candles, evidence of a church hiding, in the tombs, from persecution.
On the walls of this tomb marches an iconic piece of evidence for interaction between Egyptians and Semitic people. The light skin color, dress and hairstyle of this group of people show they would be from or around Israel. Although not a depiction of Joseph's family coming to Egypt, the scene displays a similar journey. They join a throng of people groups approaching a customs officer.
The next tomb contained a gallery of unexpected, fun content! The main wall presented the oldest depiction of marshal arts moves! Next to it (shown on the pillar in the picture above) were several yoga or stretching poses done for the practitioners to recover.
In the lower right hand corner of the opposite wall, the artists painted men drinking from a pot of beer with long straws. This is still the way beer is consumed in the villages of Uganda today!
In the final tomb, our guide showed us red writing on the low-lit wall. These were names of Christians hiding from persecution, using the unsettled and unpatrolled mid-kingdom area as a hideout.
Standing before
names written in red
as if smeared by blood
Blood of the Lamb,
blood of the sacrifice
perchance required
of them
Hear voices
still whispering,
wondering
Are they shaking
with fear, asking
if anyone remembers
them? Do they
look with uncertainty
across the valley,
questioning if strength
exists in their hearts
to stand firm?
Do they embrace
their children,
or grieve those left behind?
Are they mourning
the martyrdom of family
as they sing praises,
soft notes wafting through the cave?
Does Truth roll from
their tongues, bolstering
faith? Do they hold
God's Word in their hands,
or beg the Spirit
to recall His words to their mind?
Brothers and sisters
standing before me
their names remembered,
their memory yet echoing
through the chamber,
asking,
"Do you now remember
those suffering for
The Name
as if you too endured
by their side?"
Back outside, descending a hill which held stories of a community from an entirely different time, yet connected with the thirty-some tourists who stepped in, a communion sealed by the Spirit of God. Their testimony now moves with me, influencing the trajectory forward, reminding me this drama includes a family across time, under the Head who preserves His bride.
Driving away, I felt a heaviness which threatened to burst my heart with its weightiness. The children playing soccer/football beside the road, the women carrying baskets on their head as they strolled home to care for their families, the girls whispering to one another and giggling in response, the men sitting at their businesses with their hands busy at a task... who would tell them about the Maker of their souls who loved them with such an unfathomable love that He gave His own self to beckon them into relationship with Him? Who would live as the vessel of Christ's presence among them, a messenger pointing back to the incarnate King who walked in their midst? Would these beautiful, priceless individuals hear the invitation "Come Home!" before they joined the tombs among them?
The weightiness of these questions, the expanse of this burden, crushes the human soul if not surrendered to Christ. Only He possesses the strength to carry His plan of salvation for the nations through to completion. I simultaneously embraced and shuddered at the sliver of God's heart grieving in love over His creation who have not yet heard His Name.
Hundreds of Muslim graves in the shadow of the Beni Hassan tombs.
Feel the weight
the grief of
Holy tears
weeping over those
who never came
Home
Do not quickly scroll through these pictures of the town. Take time to glimpse their life, world, culture. Pause to pray for the faces in each photo, and those unseen here.
Meidum pyramid
The last site before returning to Cairo: Meidum pyramid. This structure feels incredibly abrupt in the midst of desert and a ways from the nearest small town. This "failed" or collapsed pyramid was built by the same pharaoh who made the Red and bent pyramids. He abandoned this project to pursue the other two.
The view looking upwards from inside.
Next to the pyramid was a tomb left "unrefined" for tourists who desired to get an experience similar to tomb robbers who looted the graves. We had to crawl on hands and knees through the tunnels, becoming covered with fine dust. The way in felt long, but it probably took us ten minutes or less to get out. I guess we were quickly professional!
Our group who braved the tomb tunnels. We each climbed inside the open sarcophagus where a mummy probably laid before the tomb was looted.
Emerging from the tomb.
Last Museums
Then we arrived back in Cairo for our last days at the museums.
We gathered in the lobby for a reflection on the trip. Tears were shed as several people shared how much the content of learning, sites, and the group meant to them. Us ladies thanked our brothers in Christ who had given their presence to make sure we were safe and did not need to walk alone. I shared how abundantly love I felt, as if I had the freedom to be a little sister. Often I had found myself overwhelmed by the affection or encouragement I received, at loss of words to express my gratitude to God for these people He allowed me to know. Proving the case, I began crying as I tried to capture this ample thanksgiving. One of the professors exclaimed, "Someone give this girl a hug!" and I received embrace from the ladies around me. A gift I will not quickly forget.
Our last day in country, we visited two museum in Cairo. I found the grinding stones in this case fascinating, because my friend in Uganda still use the same thing to grind peas at home! I wonder how humorous they would find it that people pay to see something so normal to them!
The process of baking bread and packaging it to go. See the man grinding flour with a set of rocks like that in the picture above, then the men taking bread in packages to a worker tallying the number of loaves made.
A plumb-line, used to determine if the wall stand straight. This proved a blast from the past for me, as I recalled talking about plumb-line during my time with YWAM in South Africa. We learned from Amos 7:7-8 where God demonstrates that He will knock down the walls of belief and practice among His people which do not stand true to His straight line of Truth. He will destroy the skewed walls we construct in order to take up back to the foundation, which can be on the Rock of Christ alone, and build us into the church, kingdom, priesthood which reflects His image through walls built to plumb- constructed according to truth.
Pieces from Christian tapestries. After seeing names of Egyptian Christians in the toms, a new weight of reality came with looking at these faces. They represented very real people serving God.
Right beside the Christian artifacts was a section with Muslim history. This is an ornate box in which they kept the Qaran. Felt like coming full circle after visiting Old Cairo at the start of the trip.
At this museum, we also got to view the mummies of a number of pharaohs we'd repeatedly heard of throughout our travels. Among them lay the candidates for the pharaoh of the Exodus. Eerie seems the best word I can think of to describe the experience of staring in the shriveled face of a man who may have enslaved God's people and believed himself powerful to oppose God's plan. Each of these kings who built extensive, astounding structures and carved their figure into the walls, trying with every ounce of their riches and reach of their power to immortalize their name, memory and body. Now these figures lay exposed in a shriveled state, looking utterly helpless. For the first time I understood why a debate exists whether to put these bodies out for display; it felt as if I was entering a space of vulnerability meant to remain off limits. I found myself whispering in the presence of bodies void of their soul, wondering if the rulers who strove to project their being into the future would still desire such if they knew how they'd be lying thousands of years later.
Between museums we stopped for lunch at an iconic restaurant known for its rice and spaghetti bowl which was topped with tomato sauce, chick peas, crunchy onions and chili sauce. The waiter would come around to each table and dramatically pour on the toppings for those willing to receive it.
We ate on the top floor, the fifth or sixth story. Each level was packed with customers.
In the final museum... This granite triangle is the tip of a pyramid. A sort of capstone, but on the top rather than the foundation.
We also got to see the Merneptah stele, a record made by Pharaoh Merneptah concerning the nations in Canaan he defeated. Among them is listed Israel. Hence, this monument from the 13th century BC contains the first extra-Biblical mention of Israel as a nation. Over a year ago, I had sat in a class at school learning about this piece of Biblical evidence. How astounding to see it in person, with no glass separating the viewer from artifact, and know the significance of what stood before me.
As a side note, this famous piece of evidence used by Biblical scholars is a recycled stele, meaning Merneptah's father orinigally made the monument to record his own military victories. Rather than using the money to craft a new stele, Meneptah engraved on the back side.
Pointing out the mention of Israel.
Israel is written in the center row.
Another piece of evidence used by Biblical scholars: the Amarna tablets. These clay letters from the 14th century BC contain exchange between the pharaoh and Canaanite rulers. In the correspondence the Canaanites mention a people group coming in and taking over the land. The name and timing seems to imply this was the Israelite nation.
The pharaoh being guided by the god Horus, depicted as a hawk. Note that you cannot see the bird from the front, and cannot see the pharaoh's head from the back.
Tiny metallic pharaoh figure found by the pyramids after weeks of sifting through the sand.
This museam was the oldest of the three, and contained library-like rooms filled with hundreds of artifacts artistically displayed in wooden cases. Unfortunately, we came near closing time and had precious few minutes to examine these displays.
a small child mummified and buried in a basket. Reminded by a of Moses hidden in a basket, but saved from the death fearfully near.
A few more mummified crocodiles.
The group and goodbyes
I cannot thank this very special group of brothers and sisters in Christ enough for making Egypt an exciting adventure, fun collection of memories, and place of God's hand at work. I found it incredibly hard to leave, which caused me to double back and praise the Lord for the goodness of the gifts He gives His children!
And a snapshot of how things truly went sometimes...
Photo credits to a friend
I had the hardest time deciding what pictures to share with you. As the above photo indicates, I could be found at every site with a camera in one hand and phone in another, trying to simultaneously listen to the guide through our whispers (earpieces) and take in the enormity of what I saw. I ended up with 700+ pictures on the camera, and over a thousand on my phone! I have attempted to select the best from them to give you a glimpse of the nearly incomprehensible history and current scenes of Egypt.
I want to conclude with wise words spoken by Dr. Schmutzer early on in the trip:
"As we experience a new culture- both its history and reality today- we encounter a hermeneutic of involvement. This draws us to the hermeneutic of empathy: will we care? Involvement with empathy is a weighty thing."
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