Ethiopia

 

I know you might think, "Travelling again?!" Yes, God has called and blessed our family to travel several times this year. This month, we went to Ethiopia. Why? My parents' visas expired so we needed to leave the country in order to renew the visas. Additionally, a Freedom in Christ coworker from Ethiopia lives in the capital city and invited my dad to lead a marriage course.

Our first picture, still in the airport. Makai and I went up the stairs and down the escalator about a dozen times while the rest of the family waited for our luggage. How great that the simple things in life can prove entertaining!

Welcome to Ethiopia, one of the only two African countries never colonized. The Ethiopian people are proud and courageous. They defended their country against multiple attacks from the Italians. Some of the world's oldest churches exist in this country, carved from stone from the roof down to the foundation.

Riding to the hotel, Makai was already telling me to take no more pictures of him :)

I took pictures of some of the first sights instead...

Roadside shops just like Uganda!

Mom noted Addis Ababa (Ethiopia's capital) has more high rises than Uganda.

Typical city crowd with people everywhere. I loved seeing the various physiques of Ethiopians. Some appeared Arabic, others Eritrean (the stereotypical Ethiopian look), others Indian, others Southeast Asian and even some who looked Mexican!

This was the first of two cars I saw being fixed in the middle of the road. More common, however, was roadside mechanics who worked on cars parked along the curb.

Roadside vendors carried their wares in tarps with handles (like the man above), baskets, boxes or bundles. They needed the ability to leave quickly in case of rain or a police officer chasing them away. (We saw this happen twice. Both times the officer carried a long stick, and he wasn't afraid to whack someone with it. Unfortunately, this sad phenomenon happens in Uganda as well. Vendors don't have the money to rent a shop, yet desperately need a means of supporting themselves or their families. However, their wares often clog the streets and keep customers from entering actual shops. This is one of the many struggles in Africa which has no clear cut solution.)

Everywhere along the street sat shoe shiners with two or three buckets of water, a stump/stool for their customer to sit on and brushes. You needed only to go out your door and a few steps to find someone to clean your shoes. Our driver and friend was appalled at the thought of us washing our own shoes, showing us how ingrained shoe shiners are in the city life.

This type of vehicle heavily populated the roads. I appreciated seeing it because my mom told me Nigeria also had a large number of them. How fun to see a piece of the country I lived in as a baby!

We were incredibly thankful for the hotel we stayed at- the Haile Grand. Our room worked perfectly for the kids to do school. My parents even met the owner, a former world renowned runner who now acts as an investor, owning many buildings in Addis Ababa. Despite his success, everyone in his acquaintance knows him as a humble man who cares about his employees.

Beautiful Africa

you have stolen my heart

given me a home

made me a part

of dusty roads

bare feet,

head-carried loads

pothole-y streets

outdoors life

blazing sun

beauty and strife

wrapped in one

sunsets grand

painting the sky

later than planned

plans applied

striking people

brave and patient

growth under steeples

Gospel not stagnant.

We admired the waterfall while our parents checked in.

Staying on the eighth floor, we took quite a few elevator rides! Luka and I experimented with drumming on the elevator walls (our dad told us later he could hear us when were still on floor seven); Emalai, Makai and I often sang our own elevator music. 

The view of Addis Ababa from our hotel room window. We often enjoyed staring at the busy street below.

Surprising to me, Ethiopia seemed full of roses! The hotel used hundreds for decoration and street vendors around the airport sold bouquets.

The ladies who cleaned our room even left roses on our bed!

Chained

staring from

behind

longing

looking

waiting for

freedom.

He says,

gently,

"Child,

did you not

know

the stairs

are open

behind

you?"

Luka loved the roof of the activity center. He called it the 'hood. I found his rapping up here a couple times.

Emalai enjoyed jazz music on the TV. When we left, she bemoaned several times that she had to leave this luxury behind.

The very first night, my parents and I went to hotel's traditional restaurant. What an interesting experience! When you enter, the first thing that strikes you is the smoky incense wafting around the room. As soon as you approach the table, the shortness of chairs and table alike stand out.

At the end of each table stands a colorful, tall basket. The top is removed to reveal a circular table within the basket on which to put large plates.

The attention to detail in the restaurant astounded me! Each wall was adorned with a stripe of cow hide design.

The chairs also boasted intricate patterns with several different designs.

Ethiopian games, artifacts, stools and decorations hung from the walls against woven grass mat backdrops.

Several days a week, from 6:30 to 11:00 p.m. a band sings, dances and plays traditional instruments at the restaurant. They even invited anyone in the crowd to try dancing with them! I tried, but may have well made a fool of myself :) The experience was fully worth it!

Before brining our food, a waiter came to our table with a silver teapot-shaped pitcher on top a silver bowl. The bowl's top was covered with a drain so that the pitcher can set on top, but the water can also drain into the bowl. We washed our hands without leaving our seats.

Our first attempt ordering local Ethiopian food from a menu almost entirely in Amharic (one of the main languages).

We didn't do bad! The cold, airy and spongey bread under the meat and rolled up along the sides is injera, the staple starch. It tastes sour, but mixes well with spicy soups.

After each meal, most Ethiopians drink coffee made in a traditional pot. It is drunk from small cups while scalding hot. I enjoyed this experience (and flavor) very much! My mom and I drank a ton of coffee during the trip.

Coffee came with popcorn; kinda fun that it was served in a woven basket. The first night, we were also served injera bread with ginger. The second time we went, a snack made of barley and nuts was served with the popcorn.

We sat for hours mesmerized by the band. Traditional Ethiopian music blends East African, Indian, Arabic and a bit of Caribbean styles.

The dancers sported unique traditional costumes for each routine.

On Wednesday, Mom, Luka and I went shopping at an arts and crafts market. Three floors of dresses, coffee sets, baskets, magnets, mirrors, and much more!

Our driver for the day was a man named Addis. Meeting him proved the providence of God! While still at the hotel, my mom asked the receptionist how to get a local driver and the receptionist helped her set up the Ethiopian uber-like app. Our driver could have been anyone. Yet in God's wisdom, He directed Addis to volunteer. Soon into our drive to the market, we asked him if he was born again; he said yes! He shared how life is often difficult in Ethiopia for born again Christians because the Coptic church is so dominant and, at times, persecutes Christians from other denominations. He also shared with us how the Coptic church no longer follows the Bible; instead, it has become a sort of Pharisee-run organization. Mom and I even noted the Coptic priests walking around the streets were dressed in attire similar to Pharisees of Jesus' day!

Back to Addis. He shared with us about visions God had given him, thanking God for fellow brethren in Christ who listened attentively as he told us about them. Addis became our friend, close brother in Christ and tour guide. He helped us negotiate prices in the market and translated for us when shop keepers didn't know English. He was constantly looking out for us and checking if we needed anything. Additionally, we had several conversations about the Bible, faith and Christian living. Addis proved a wise man with the gift of intellect. I'm blown away by God's sovereign ways of uniting His children from different countries!

Back to the market...

How in the WORLD do you choose a dress when every shop has shelves packed with them?! I looked at many differing styles in the various shops. Even after a few hours shopping, it was hard to make a choice!

Amharic and English Bible. The Word of God is living and active in this beautiful character-written language!

Because of the Coptic church's large influence, nearly every shop had painting of saints or Bible characters.

The face on these stools is an Ethiopian symbol.

Another Coptic influence: hundreds of decorative crucifixes.

You're one

not divided

created with

a single

purpose.

neglect

bending for

others' will

live in joy

of being

your divinely

appointed

self

Stunning depiction of the beautiful variety among physique of the Ethiopian people.

Although everyone I saw used an undecorated black version, this is a traditional coffee pot.

A taste of dress variety

Twisted finely, tightly, firmly;

maybe with pain to maker's hand.

Each color with purpose placed

exactly where needed along the band

of multiple others, none more

important than the rest can

create striking rainbow alone.

Traditional coffee making set-up

Another picture of the love of God flowing through His servant Addis was his generosity. During both of our trips with him, Addis bought us coffee and refused to be repaid. We deeply appreciated these times with him, having meaningful conversation around lovely hot drinks. (Luka especially like these treats, because he and Addis would get sick of shopping long before Mom and I. The boys would take a break at the restaurant while they waited for us ladies to finish)

The next day, Mom and I went out to drink more coffee at a road side restaurant. While the above is not the place we found, the set up is similar.

We learned during our time enjoying coffee that most Ethiopians take very little time to drink their coffee.

Every restaurant we saw had the same cups, set up in the same decorative way.

We paid 15 Birr (equivalent to about a quarter) a cup.

Afterwards, we bought roadside french fries for Makai. I love the funnel the vendor made out of a piece of paper to put the snack into.

A typical scene walking down the road. Our blond hair and fair skin got just as much attention here as it does in Uganda.

What a cool "floating" banana set up at every fruit stand.

My mom's favorite drink at the hotel: special tea (a layer of honey, one of juice and one of ginger tea).

Addis Ababa and the surrounding countryside are quite mountainous. This makes for delightfully cool weather! We also came during the three months of rainy season. Any sunny minutes were noted!

With the elegant roses and beautiful garden around the hotel, I am still struck by the beauty of this flower Emalai gave me. She found it on the ground and I put it in a glass of water when we got back to the room. The floating wonder amazed me in such a degree I broke out my phone to take pictures. 

How true that God sees beauty in brokenness. Why? Brokenness forces one into absolute humility before and surrender to God, who one sees as never before as the Almighty Deliverer.

I'm not sure what the fascination was with clay bird statues, but Mr. Haile had several at this hotel and two huge doves at the gate of another of his hotels that we drove past.

We thoroughly enjoyed the table tennis, pool table and foosball.

One of the wellness center employees often came up to play with us. No matter the game, we could never defeat him!

We did a lot of swimming too. However, we were surprised the first time we came to the pool: everyone was required to wear a swim cap! Our friend told us this is a usual rule at Ethiopian pools. Still, it was the first time our family has had to wear swim caps. We struggled to get them on over all our hair.. I even broke one, whoops :) 

Although the trip contained much joy, seeing poverty right next door to comfortable living saddened me. I looked down from our eighth floor, wonderful hotel room to see these small, crammed together houses. How does one enjoy blessing when they simultaneously gaze on poverty? 

I wrestle over this question almost daily. In the pain, I thank the Father who comforts me with His Word, goodness and ultimate victory.

Back to the Ethiopian restaurant with the rest of the family!

More music! This gentleman, who sang all three nights, made Rastafarian-like tunes.

Even mom braved dancing tonight!

Makai found a new spot to watch, which quickly became my favorite place to sit.

Whenever we ordered coffee, incense came with it. Our FIC coworker, Zemen, told us incense used to be used (and is still in some rural areas) in connection with spirit worship.

Makai tried to gather the courage to dance multiple times. He insisted he needed his hood on to do so.

Baskets, drums, spears, sticks, bells and umbrellas were used as dancing props.

On the speaker next to the musician, you can see how many flutes he had to choose from!

Watching life pass by...

I found the trip to Ethiopia immensely encouraging to my prayer life. I've prayed off and on for the country, so I was thrilled to finally see the place and meet the people I've been praying for. Additionally, I now know better how to pray for the country, including several people I met during the trip.

Prayer is powerful! Often nonpersecuted Christians (including myself) forget this. Yet Christ tells His followers multiple times throughout the Scriptures, particularly in John 15, of the power He's given Christians to pray in His name. Freedom in Christ, the organization we work for, has been instrumental in showing me how these passages reveal the authority Christ gives His followers. You have authority to ask whatever is in line with God's word! You have authority to command the negative thoughts in your head to shut up! You have authority to ask for protection or provision! You have authority to pray for salvation of a person or nation! All this only in Jesus' name.

Never underestimate prayer. God hears each word you speak to Him. He longs to draw you close to Himself through this time together. Take time to meditate on the fact that the KING of kings and God CREATOR of the universe desires to spend time with you! Consider the great sacrifice of love He gave to make it possible! 

Saturday... back to the tradition restaurant yet again.

Possibly the craziest dancing I've seen yet!

The waitress (I really wish I could remember her name!) at the traditional restaurant and I became friends. Though she spoke little English (and I speak no Amharic!), we enjoyed seeing each other and communicating as best we could. Additionally, it was fun to meet someone my age.

Our last night at the restaurant, I brought a card with a Bible verse on it that I'd colored for her. Not knowing if she'd be able to read it, I looked up the Amharic translation and carefully copied down the translation on the back. Side note: the Amharic characters are the most beautiful letters I've ever seen! The waitress was amazed that I'd written a translation and showed the waiters the card. I was deeply touched, but more so I pray God will use His word to transform this beautiful girl's life into a testimony of His love!

(Funny memory of her: she spoke primarily to me when we were ordering, and I'd relay her message to the rest of the family. They'd give me their response and I'd tell it to her 😄)

Sunday, we drove out to Saluta, where Zemen works. He and my dad had stayed there Thurs-Sat. to teach the marriage course. How interesting to watch the new views of countryside life! 

Although not a single motorcycle populated city streets, the rural towns had tuktuks, three wheeled transportation vehicles.

A priest dressed more elegantly than normal (perhaps higher ranking?).

Selling grass. Shop keepers spread this grass around their shop floors to keep them from getting muddy.

Horse carts were another means of transportation.

See the clay dove statues I talked about in the background?

White head scarves are always worn to Coptic services and sometimes during normal days. They signify holiness.

Christ desires His followers indeed to put on holiness. Not physical clothes of white, but righteousness which comes only through His blood.

The compound of the ministry center where Zemen works.

Rooftop view of the village

From the start, I was astounded by the Christ-like love Zemen, his family and associates showed us. When we arrived, the three cooks (one of which used to cook at the hotel we stayed at!) had breakfast of scrambled eggs, curry, injera and kita (a local bread similar to naan) prepared for us.

Makai and Kaku, Zemen's youngest daughter, became fast friends. Kaku gives everyone around her endless laughter and joy. One day, she asked my dad how he could go to sleep after drinking coffee. My dad answered, "I shut one eye, shut the other, then open my mouth." The next morning, when Dad asked her how she slept, Kaku answered, "Great. I closed one eye, closed the other and opened my mouth." :)

Instead of buying packaged coffee grounds, most Ethiopian households roast their own beans, grind them and dump a large amount of grounds into the pot.

Outdoor kitchen area. The covered pan on the far right of the picture is for making injera bread. The family will make a bunch in one day, because it keeps good for three days.

Choir practice before church

We walked through a beautiful, though muddy, village to the church.

Our family, including Kaku our ever faithful follower and friend, sat up front, across the stage from the choir.

Little cutie :)

Mercy and Yesiga, Zemen's wife and elder daughter.

The congregation prayed with some of the greatest passion I've ever seen. How powerful to watch God's children cry out to Him with raised voices and passionate gestures!

The worship team/choir amazed me as they praised God with enthusiasm!

"Let the little children come to Me and do not stop them, for the kingdom of heaven belongs to such as these."

"If anyone causes one of these little ones- those who believe in Me- to stumble, it would be better for them to have a large millstone hung around their neck and to be drowned in the depths of the sea."

What are you modelling for, speaking about and pointing towards with children around you? How do you teach them to talk about yourself? What life do you exemplify for them? Even if you think you'll never do "great" things in your life, Christ corrects that perception: your guidance of children is crucially important!

Dad shared a convicting message about unity among believers through forgiveness. Jesus tells us in the story of the king who forgave the servant his impossible debt that God forgives us from the sin we could never atone. Be not like the forgiven servant, Dad exhorted us, who went out and refused to forgive his coworker who owned him a debt. Reflect upon the stench of sin so awful the Son of God Himself was the only sacrifice which could redeem humanity! Thanks be to Him! Let us live in praise of His gracious love!

Unforgiveness against another individual is equivalent to lugging that (wo)man around with you throughout life. Forgiveness sets YOU free!

During the sermon, this darling girl came to chat in Amharic with Mom and show Mom a wound on her finger. :)

I love this photo of Kaku snuggling up in her mommy's arms, a picture of security in loving arms. Mercy and Zemen's love for their daughters was extremely evident. Their daughters obviously blossomed in their mother's loving arms or dad's gentle kisses. This touched my heart deeply, and I pray God continually fills Zemen and Mercy with His love for their children, in turn using this to spill His love out of their family onto their community.

Traditional Ethiopian greeting: clasping hands and touching shoulders. Several church members showed great love in also embracing us with big smiles.

Actually, we did not know of the traditional greeting until half way through our trip! Due to covid, Ethiopians took up a new greeting of touching their hand to their heart and nodding at each other. This motion is still used quite often, so we thought it was a historical greeting method. I guess you live and learn!

(On that note, I can't help but reflecting on a lesson God continually brings before me: the world/devil will almost always promise you something which seems beautiful, fulfilling, meaningful and rich. But it's an empty promise. You're trading richness of Christ embracing you in His love as you surrender fully to Him, for a "covid greeting"- an empty darkness, an endless chasing after the pot of gold at the end of rainbow. Know that I say this with humility and gentleness, as one still learning to live in surrender)

Driving back to the ministry center

Our little friend from church, Kaku and Makai

Me, Yesiga/Grace (Zemen's daughter) and Inyatu (Zemen's niece)

Tigi, the main cook at the ministry center who used to work at the hotel we stayed.

Ghani, another of the ministry center cooks. She made all the wonderful coffee.

What a feast they prepared for us!

Greens, called cabbage here.

Fresh jalapeño slices and tomato roses adorned many of the dishes. 

From bottom of the photo to the top: spicy meat sauce, lentils, rice, potatoes, another rice dish, chicken, coleslaw, fish, greens/cabbage, vegetables, kita.

I learned that I like fresh jalapenos and their spicy sauces!

Makai was mesmerized with the coffee making!

Kaku told Makai while he was playing the keyboard, "If you break it, you have to buy it." ;) I think Makai has finally met his equal!

Luka and Kaku absolutely loved teasing each other!

I deeply appreciate the three cooks' example of humble servant hearts. While washing the dishes, it rained on them and they had to run for shelter with the drying plates. Yet when we said goodbye they embraced us, thanking us enthusiastically for coming. Their love was humbling. What did we ever do to deserve it? Nothing. They were showing us the selfless love of Christ.

I don't know how to put to words the love and unity I felt for/from this family! God truly drew us together in love that builds up His body in oneness. I think of the Scripture I read this week where Jesus prayed, "for those who will believe in Me through their (the apostle's) message, that all of them may be one, Father, just as You are in Me and I am in You. May they also be in us so that the world may believe that You have sent Me" (Jn. 17:20-21). Also, God brought to mind other verses which represented the heart of love He's given my family and I for Zemen's family:

"Speaking the truth in love, we will grow and become in every respect the mature body of He who is the head, that is, Christ. From Him the whole body, joined and held together by every supporting ligament, grows and builds itself up in love, as each part does its work." (Eph. 4:15-16)

 "We ought to thank God for you, brothers and sisters, and rightly so, because your faith is growing more and more, and the love of all of you have for one another is increasing. Therefore, among God's churches we boast about your perseverance and faith in all the persecutions and trials you are enduring." (2 Thes. 1:3-4)

Our last day in Ethiopia, Luka, Mom and I went with Addis to a clothes market. This wasn't just a clothes market- it was an entire street with endless shops of traditional ware! Even in the one building we shopped in, it took hours to decide on a dress! (Luka and Addis, again, got sick of it and went for coffee 😄)

Long sleeves wrapped around the back of the mannequin and flipped over its shoulders as if the dress was giving itself a hug.

So, so, so, so many styles and designs! And nearly all of them have silver or gold string glittering among the colors

Matching outfits for mom and child or a couple were also available!

God showed me through the Psalms and the writings of C.S. Lewis that He created beauty, colors, creativity and art, so I could praise Him for this dress market!

Some scenes from our ride around the city...

A restaurant

A lady at a shop and shoe shiners

Several old buses had been converted into shops

Addis bought us a local fruit which is used for cooling down on hotter days. It used to be free (not sold) and mostly children eat it. The outer skin has small thorns. Its flavor is similar to a bland papaya, but it has seeds in it like a pomegranate.

Emalai elegantly sporting her Ethiopian dress

The stunning artistic piece of clothing I finally decided upon

A few more roadside sights from our drive out...

There are few rules in diving around Addis Ababa. Those few are be slow and aggressive. Folks often darted across the streets right in front of cars. Let's just say Mom and I are much slower to cross the street :) I'm so thankful for our drivers and God's hand of protection.

Roadside mechanic

Entrance to one of the many Coptic churches. On Sunday, the entire street side was swamped with congregants.

How sad to leave such an interesting country to with good friends! I hope, God willing, to return!